Niacinamide is the powerhouse your skincare routine needs
Niacinamide is the latest beauty product getting all the attention, taking over from highly rated peptides, retinol and vitamin C as the star of the skincare show. In 2023, the niacinamide skincare market was valued at a whopping $558.9 million. And it’s not slowing down. By 2030, it’s expected to surge past $846 million.
There’s good reason for that. The topical treatment is key to getting the glowing, smooth complexion we’re all after. But how does it work?
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a topical form of vitamin B3, an essential nutrient packed with health benefits. It can heal skin from the inside out, with deficiencies in B3 linked to dermatitis, among other symptoms, which is why flour is fortified with the vitamin in the UK.
When applied topically, all of its goodness goes straight to the skin. ‘At a cellular level, niacinamide enhances NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) production which is essential for cellular energy and repair,’ says Lesley Powell, expert beauty therapist and founder of Skin Vitality By Lesley. NAD+ can be thought of as fuel for your skin cells, helping them with defence and healing.
Niacinamide also helps repair DNA, manage oxidative stress and improve cell metabolism. It also inhibits the transfer of melanosomes, which reduces hyperpigmentation by preventing excess melanin from being transferred to skin cells. Another benefit is that it reduces inflammatory cytokine production, which is key in calming acne and irritation.’ One study from the Journal of Dermatology even found that just eight weeks of use significantly reduced the number and severity of acne lesions, proving its power in clear and healthy skin.
Niacinamide also helps skin lock in hydration. It does this by reducing transepidermal water loss (that’s hydration you lose from your skin) and boosting natural lipids like ceramides and fatty acids. ‘Essentially, it helps the skin retain moisture better,’ explains Powell.
The benefits of niacinamide you might notice:
All of that science translates to real results. According to Powell, the difference you might find from using niacinamide are:
- Reduced inflammation: It calms redness, blotchiness, and is especially great for sensitive, rosacea-prone, or acneic skin.
- Balanced oil production: Niacinamide helps regulate sebum without over-drying – ideal for oily or combination skin types.
- Minimises pores: Over time, it can help tighten and refine pores by improving elasticity and texture.
- Strengthens skin barrier: By boosting ceramide production, it helps your skin stay hydrated and better protected against environmental stressors. A healthy barrier means fewer flare-ups and more resilience.
- Improves uneven skin tone: Niacinamide fades dark spots, post-acne marks, hyperpigmentation and melasma. It inhibits melanin production and transfer, while its anti-inflammatory properties help reduce pigment from hormonal inflammation.
- Reduces fine lines and wrinkles: With regular use, niacinamide promotes collagen production and improves skin’s elasticity for a smoother, more youthful look.
How to use niacinamide
‘Almost everyone can use niacinamide as it’s so gentle,’ explains Powell. It’s especially helpful for oily or acne-prone skin, those with sensitivity or rosacea, mature skin, and anyone with a compromised skin barrier.
Side effects are rare but, as with any ingredient, Powell says there are some people who should be careful when using it. ‘It can occasionally cause flushing, and if you have a known allergy, it needs to be avoided. People with inflamed, very sensitive skin may need to start using it gradually,’ she explains.
Even better, niacinamide complements other popular ingredients. Pair it with hyaluronic acid for extra hydration, or with retinol to help calm irritation. Just one note of caution: it may reduce the effectiveness of very acidic vitamin C, and should be alternated with strong exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs to avoid irritation.
For best results, start with morning application to support your skin throughout the day. Once your skin is comfortable with it, you can add it to your evening routine too. We recommend this staple in the skincare world to find its way to your bathroom cupboard.
The best formulas:
A 10% niacinamide product paired with antioxidant zinc for clear skin
This gentle formula is good for beginners and experienced users
This serum is all about brightening and softening with the combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid
A niacinamide blend from viral Korean skincare brand to diminish the appearance of dark spots, discolouration and enlarged poreshttps://www.lookfantastic.com/p/anua-niacinamide-10-txa-4-serum-30ml/16201620/
